Bivouac at the Top of Mont Blanc

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Maruf Hassan
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Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:28 am

Bivouac at the Top of Mont Blanc

Post by Maruf Hassan »

Since the end of December 2022, a controversy has crossed the world of mountaineering: the mayor of Saint-Gervais filed a complaint against two young climbers after their bivouac at the summit of Mont Blanc (early October 2022); bivouac filmed and posted on YouTube . The complaint is based on the decree for the protection of natural habitats (APHN) , which prohibits bivouacs on the normal route of the roof of Europe , initially to avoid summer overcrowding. The reaction of those involved in mountaineering is unanimous: the mountain interprofessional union (SIM), the national union of mountain guides (SNGM) and the French federation of alpine and mountain clubs (FFCAM) ​​strongly oppose this complaint, petition in the key. For them, this initiative is part of the famous "spirit of mountaineering", to which they refer whenever there is controversy, particularly when it comes to "great mountaineering", another name given to high-level mountaineering.

But what is it? It could be described as a set of rules, values, beliefs, which frame mountaineering and define the "right" ways to practice it. The spirit of mountaineering is not invoked by everyone, but by those who have the power to set the standards of excellence, namely the best mountaineers or the most recognized institutions. In doing so, this spirit serves to identify and distinguish “great” or “true” mountaineers from other mountain users. The precursors: bourgeois of Victorian England I conducted several years of research, from both a sociological and historical perspective , to understand the content of this spirit, but also to show the phone number list link that unites it with the way in which excellence in mountaineering is conceived. For this, I went back to the origins of this spirit . It was forged in Victorian England from the Alpine Club , the first Alpine club in the world, established in 1857, nearly twenty years before its French equivalent, the CAF (Club alpin français).

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Even if it may seem surprising given the British topography, they are indeed English bourgeois, at the forefront of mountaineering (in the Alps, but also in the Caucasus or the Himalayas) up to the in-between -wars, which gave it its codes and values. Why England? Several factors combine to explain the birth of mountaineering: a context of internal peace (when France was marked by political unrest), the appearance of a new bourgeois class resulting from the industrial revolution, keen on exploration and steeped in the imperialist ideology of the time; but also marked by sporting values ​​inculcated in schools and universities intended for boys from the social elite, “gentlemen”. Indeed, modern sport appeared in England at the same time. The development of transport initially favored the arrival of these conquerors of a new kind in the Alps, of which they climbed the vast majority of the virgin summits during their summer holidays, because most of them worked - as businessmen, lawyers or judges, professors, doctors, all these prestigious professions of the time.
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